Recipes

Cheese, Pultost

⚠ **UNTESTED.** A briefing. A Norwegian sour-milk cheese β€” soft, spreadable, sharp, and traditionally scented with **caraway.** Also called **knaost** or **ramost**, and, when the caraway goes in, **kummenost**. πŸ”΄ **And the interesting thing is what the caraway is FOR.** In this cheese the **salt and the caraway are added to STOP the fermentation** β€” they are the brake, not the seasoning. The flavour everybody knows it by is a **side effect of the off switch.** ⭐ That is the sharpest version of something this collection keeps meeting: [smoke was preservation, mint was an antimicrobial, sage was medicine](/recipes/cheese-sage-derby/) β€” **the taste is the residue of a job.** Here the job is simply *stop*. ⚠ **No rennet at all**, and made from **skimmed** milk β€” historically the cheese you made after the cream had gone to butter.

Cheese Making Β· Cheese Β· Dairy Β· Norwegian

Cheese, Pultost
Prep 2 hours over two days
Cook Days of fermentation, then stop it
Serves About 1 lb from 2 gallons skimmed milk
Level Easy

⚠ UNTESTED. A briefing.

A Norwegian sour-milk cheese β€” soft, spreadable, sharp, and traditionally scented with caraway. Also called knaost or ramost, and, when the caraway goes in, kummenost.

πŸ”΄ And the interesting thing is what the caraway is FOR. In this cheese the salt and the caraway are added to STOP the fermentation β€” they are the brake, not the seasoning. The flavour everybody knows it by is a side effect of the off switch.

⭐ That is the sharpest version of something this collection keeps meeting: smoke was preservation, mint was an antimicrobial, sage was medicine β€” the taste is the residue of a job. Here the job is simply stop.

⚠ No rennet at all, and made from skimmed milk β€” historically the cheese you made after the cream had gone to butter.

Ingredients

  • 2 gallons skimmed milk β€” skimmed while still warm, traditionally
  • 1/2 cup cultured buttermilk or soured milk, as the starter
  • 1 to 2 Tbsp salt
  • 1 to 2 Tbsp caraway seed β€” the traditional flavouring, and the stop signal

Directions

Key ingredients

Salt

  1. Sour the skimmed milk. Stir in the buttermilk and leave it warm until it has clabbered firmly and smells sharp β€” a day is usual. ⭐ Acid coagulation only; no rennet goes anywhere near this cheese.
  2. πŸ”΄ Heat it slowly to somewhere between 113 and 149 F / 45 and 65 C. ⚠ The range is real, not vagueness on my part β€” different valleys and different makers use different temperatures, and it is one of the ways one pultost differs from another. Start around 130 F / 55 C.
  3. Hold it an hour off the heat, and let the curd gather.
  4. Ladle the curd into cloths, and let it drain a full two days.
  5. πŸ”΄ Now crumble it and let it ferment at room temperature. This is the step that makes it pultost rather than a plain sour curd: the crumbled cheese is left to work, and it gets sharper and softer and more pungent as it does. Taste it daily.
  6. ⭐ When it tastes right, STOP it β€” with salt and caraway. Work them both through thoroughly. ⚠ This is a decision, not a step: whenever you add them is what your pultost will taste like, and there is no going back or forward from there.
  7. Pack it into a tub, and keep it cold from then on.
  8. What right looks like: soft enough to spread, grainy rather than smooth, sharp and quite pungent, with the caraway sitting over the top of it.

Notes

Where this recipe came from β€” and what it is not πŸ”΄ UNTESTED. Traditional pultost is made from milk skimmed immediately after milking, while still warm, and started with a house culture of old lactic strains rather than a packet β€” neither of which a domestic kitchen reproduces exactly.

⭐ The seasoning as an off switch It is easy to read β€œsalt and caraway are added” as a flavouring step. In the traditional descriptions they are what arrests the fermentation β€” which means the maker is choosing the finished flavour by choosing when to intervene, and the caraway is the timestamp. ⭐ A cheese whose defining flavouring exists to end the process is a very unusual object, and I have not met another in this collection.

⚠ Not to be confused with its neighbour Gamalost is the other famous Norwegian sour-milk cheese, and it is nearly the opposite: no salt at all, and ripened with a mould (Mucor mucedo) that is worked into the surface so the cheese matures from the outside in. ⭐ Pultost stops itself with salt; gamalost hands itself over to a fungus. Same starting material, opposite philosophies.

⚠ And this is the second cheese in this batch that sits outside its spine. Pultost has no shaping and no surface-area strategy at all β€” it is included because it completes the Nordic sour-milk picture that brunost and the whey cheeses only half tell.

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