Cheese, Pultost
β **UNTESTED.** A briefing. A Norwegian sour-milk cheese β soft, spreadable, sharp, and traditionally scented with **caraway.** Also called **knaost** or **ramost**, and, when the caraway goes in, **kummenost**. π΄ **And the interesting thing is what the caraway is FOR.** In this cheese the **salt and the caraway are added to STOP the fermentation** β they are the brake, not the seasoning. The flavour everybody knows it by is a **side effect of the off switch.** β That is the sharpest version of something this collection keeps meeting: [smoke was preservation, mint was an antimicrobial, sage was medicine](/recipes/cheese-sage-derby/) β **the taste is the residue of a job.** Here the job is simply *stop*. β **No rennet at all**, and made from **skimmed** milk β historically the cheese you made after the cream had gone to butter.
Cheese Making Β· Cheese Β· Dairy Β· Norwegian
β UNTESTED. A briefing.
A Norwegian sour-milk cheese β soft, spreadable, sharp, and traditionally scented with caraway. Also called knaost or ramost, and, when the caraway goes in, kummenost.
π΄ And the interesting thing is what the caraway is FOR. In this cheese the salt and the caraway are added to STOP the fermentation β they are the brake, not the seasoning. The flavour everybody knows it by is a side effect of the off switch.
β That is the sharpest version of something this collection keeps meeting: smoke was preservation, mint was an antimicrobial, sage was medicine β the taste is the residue of a job. Here the job is simply stop.
β No rennet at all, and made from skimmed milk β historically the cheese you made after the cream had gone to butter.
Ingredients
- 2 gallons skimmed milk β skimmed while still warm, traditionally
- 1/2 cup cultured buttermilk or soured milk, as the starter
- 1 to 2 Tbsp salt
- 1 to 2 Tbsp caraway seed β the traditional flavouring, and the stop signal
Directions
Key ingredients
- Sour the skimmed milk. Stir in the buttermilk and leave it warm until it has clabbered firmly and smells sharp β a day is usual. β Acid coagulation only; no rennet goes anywhere near this cheese.
- π΄ Heat it slowly to somewhere between 113 and 149 F / 45 and 65 C. β The range is real, not vagueness on my part β different valleys and different makers use different temperatures, and it is one of the ways one pultost differs from another. Start around 130 F / 55 C.
- Hold it an hour off the heat, and let the curd gather.
- Ladle the curd into cloths, and let it drain a full two days.
- π΄ Now crumble it and let it ferment at room temperature. This is the step that makes it pultost rather than a plain sour curd: the crumbled cheese is left to work, and it gets sharper and softer and more pungent as it does. Taste it daily.
- β When it tastes right, STOP it β with salt and caraway. Work them both through thoroughly. β This is a decision, not a step: whenever you add them is what your pultost will taste like, and there is no going back or forward from there.
- Pack it into a tub, and keep it cold from then on.
- What right looks like: soft enough to spread, grainy rather than smooth, sharp and quite pungent, with the caraway sitting over the top of it.
Notes
Where this recipe came from β and what it is not π΄ UNTESTED. Traditional pultost is made from milk skimmed immediately after milking, while still warm, and started with a house culture of old lactic strains rather than a packet β neither of which a domestic kitchen reproduces exactly.
β The seasoning as an off switch It is easy to read βsalt and caraway are addedβ as a flavouring step. In the traditional descriptions they are what arrests the fermentation β which means the maker is choosing the finished flavour by choosing when to intervene, and the caraway is the timestamp. β A cheese whose defining flavouring exists to end the process is a very unusual object, and I have not met another in this collection.
β Not to be confused with its neighbour Gamalost is the other famous Norwegian sour-milk cheese, and it is nearly the opposite: no salt at all, and ripened with a mould (Mucor mucedo) that is worked into the surface so the cheese matures from the outside in. β Pultost stops itself with salt; gamalost hands itself over to a fungus. Same starting material, opposite philosophies.
β And this is the second cheese in this batch that sits outside its spine. Pultost has no shaping and no surface-area strategy at all β it is included because it completes the Nordic sour-milk picture that brunost and the whey cheeses only half tell.
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