Recipes

Old Fashioned, Brown Butter

Alcohol · Cocktails

Old Fashioned, Brown Butter
Prep 5 minutes, plus an overnight fat-wash
Serves 1 drink
Level Medium

Brown butter is already one of the great flavours — nutty, toasty, faintly caramel, the smell of a pan just before something good happens. Washed into bourbon it produces an Old Fashioned with a weight and a roundness that no amount of syrup can fake, because the richness is textural rather than sweet.

This is the one to make for somebody who says they find Old Fashioneds harsh. The fat softens the ethanol edge in a way sugar cannot, and it does it without making the drink sweeter — which is exactly the problem sugar creates when you overuse it to solve the same complaint.

It belongs to the modern Australian and New Zealand bar school, where fat-washing became a house habit rather than a party trick.

Ingredients

Directions

  1. Make the brown-butter-washed bourbon first — see Bourbon, Fat-Washed. Brown the butter properly to a deep golden with visible toasted milk solids; pale butter gives you fat without flavour.
  2. Demerara syrup and bitters into the glass; stir together.
  3. Add the washed bourbon, stir a couple of turns.
  4. Large cube in, stir 20–30 seconds.
  5. Express the orange peel over the surface, wipe the rim, drop it in.

Notes

Demerara over white sugar here. The light molasses note runs alongside the toasted-butter character instead of cutting across it.

Cut the syrup if it reads rich. Fat is not sweetness, but the mouth reads weight as richness, so a drink that is correctly sugared on paper can taste heavy. A scant quarter-ounce is a safer start than a generous one.

Do not garnish with anything dairy. It sounds obvious; people try.

Toasted pecan oil in place of the butter makes a superb autumn variation — same method, and it goes very well with the maple build in Old Fashioned, Maple and Rye.

See Brown Butter (Beurre Noisette) for the browning itself.