Oysters and Pearls

Keller’s iconic dish: a warm sabayon of pearl tapioca crowning poached oysters and finished with caviar.

Ingredients

• 1/3 cup small pearl tapioca
• 1 cup whole milk
• 1 cup heavy cream, divided
• 12 to 18 fresh oysters, shucked, liquor reserved
• 4 large egg yolks

Kosher salt and cayenne

• 2 Tbsp creme fraiche, lightly whipped
• 30 to 60 g (about 2 to 4 Tbsp) osetra or white sturgeon caviar
• Chopped fresh chives, to garnish

Directions

1. Soak the tapioca in cold water for 1 hour, then drain. Combine with the milk and 2/3 cup cream in a saucepan and cook gently, stirring often, until the pearls are translucent and tender, about 20 to 30 minutes.
2. Strain the oyster liquor; gently poach the shucked oysters in their liquor just until plumped and the edges curl, about 30 seconds. Remove and reserve, keeping the liquor.
3. Whisk the egg yolks with a few tablespoons of the warm oyster liquor in a bowl over a pan of simmering water until thick and ribbony, making a sabayon.
4. Fold the warm tapioca into the sabayon, then season with salt and a small pinch of cayenne. Loosen with a little reserved cream if too thick.
5. Whip the remaining cream with the creme fraiche to soft peaks.
6. Spoon a layer of the tapioca sabayon into each warm bowl, nestle 2 to 3 poached oysters in, top with more sabayon, then a quenelle of the whipped cream.
7. Crown each with a generous spoon of caviar and a scatter of chives. Serve immediately.

Notes

Thomas Keller’s signature French Laundry course, on the menu since the restaurant opened; the caviar is essential to the dish.