Ingredients
For the Soup
- 2 pounds (1 kg) chub mackerel, sardines, or other small, oily fish, gutted and cleaned (keep the heads on)
- 10 1/2 cups (2.5 L) water
- 1 pound (450 g) dried thick rice noodles, or 21 ounces (600 g) fresh thick rice noodles (see note)
- 10 Asian shallots (about 5 ounces; 150 g), peeled and sliced
- 12 dried Kashmiri chiles, stemmed and sliced, soaked in hot water
- 2 fresh medium-hot red chiles, such as fresnos, stemmed and sliced
- 2 torch ginger flower buds (about 3 1/2 ounces/100 g; see note)
- 4 stalks lemongrass, pale bulbous bottom part only, outer leaves discarded, tender core thinly sliced (about 1 1/2 ounces; 40 g)
- 1/2 ounce (15 g) fresh or frozen galangal, peeled and thinly sliced
- 2 tablespoons (30 g) shrimp paste, preferably Malaysian-style belacan
- 5 g fresh turmeric, peeled and thinly sliced (see note)
- 2 medium garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
- 2 tablespoons (30 ml) tamarind concentrate
- 4 pieces asam gelugur or kokum (optional; see note)
- About 1 cup (50 g) Vietnamese mint leaves (see note)
- 2 1/2 tablespoons granulated sugar, plus more as needed
- 1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more as needed
- Neutral oil, such as vegetable or canola oil, as needed for noodles
- For Serving:
- (all garnish are optional)
Picked fresh spearmint leaves
- Pineapple, sliced into thin chunks (preferably fresh)
- 3 to 5 Asian shallots, peeled and thinly sliced
- Fresh chiles, such as fresnos, stemmed and thinly sliced
- Torch ginger flower buds, thinly sliced (see note)
- 3 calamansi oranges or Persian limes, halved
- Petis udang, thinned with hot water to make about 1/2 cup of a thick, pourable consistency (see notes)
Directions
Key ingredients
For the Soup
- In a medium stock pot, bring the water to a boil over high heat. Add fish and cook for 5 minutes. Remove from heat. Using wire skimmer, transfer fish to a bowl and let cool for 10 minutes. Using a measuring cup, measure out 2 cups fish stock and set aside; leave remaining stock in pot. Debone fish, reserving heads and bones separate from fish meat.
- In a food processor, combine fish heads and bones with 1 cup reserved stock. Process until it becomes a thick slurry, about 1 minute. Stir slurry back into stock, bring to a boil over medium-high heat, and cook, adjusting heat as needed to maintain simmer, for 30 minutes.
- If using dried rice noodles, soak them in hot water and set aside while preparing spice paste and soup.
- While fish stock is cooking, in a clean food processor, add shallots, soaked dried chiles, red chiles, torch ginger flower buds, lemongrass, galangal, fresh turmeric, garlic, shrimp paste, and remaining 1 cup measured fish stock. Process, scraping down sides as necessary, until the mixture becomes a smooth paste, about 1 minute.
- Strain fish-bone stock through a fine-mesh strainer into a large non-reactive bowl; discard crushed fish bones. Rinse stock pot clean, then pour strained stock back into pot. Add processed spice paste along with tamarind concentrate, asam gelugur (if using), Vietnamese mint leaves, and deboned fish meat. Stir. Bring to a simmer over medium heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until broth is slightly viscous and intensely flavored, for 1 hour. Stir in 2 1/2 tablespoons sugar and 1 tablespoon kosher salt then adjust seasoning to taste.
- While broth is cooking, finish preparing the rice noodles. If using dried rice noodles: Drain soaked noodles, place in a large saucepan, add water to cover by about 1 inch, then bring to boil over high heat. Cook until the noodles are cooked through, about 20 minutes. Immediately plunge into ice water to stop the cooking process, then drain again. Toss with 1 teaspoon neutral oil to prevent the noodles from clumping and set aside. If using fresh rice noodles: Blanch in boiling water for about 30 seconds, then drain. Toss with 1 teaspoon neutral oil to prevent the noodles from clumping and set aside.
For Serving
- Divide noodles among serving bowls. Pour 2 to 3 ladles of soup straight over noodles, making sure to include chunks of fish. Garnish each serving with any combination of spearmint leaves, pineapple, shallots, chiles, and torch ginger flower buds. Squeeze half a calamansi lime and drizzle 1 tablespoon of petis udang over each bowl. Serve.
Make-Ahead and Storage
- Store the prepared noodles and fish soup in airtight containers in the fridge for no longer than 1 week.
Notes
Torch ginger flower buds are available at Southeast Asian grocery stores under the names “bunga kantan” or “kecombrang,” and usually still on the stem. Choose buds that are bright pink and firm. Remove the thick stem from right underneath the bud before using. If you can’t find torch ginger flower buds, you can use additional galangal in its place in the stock and omit it as a garnish.
Fresh turmeric can be found in South Asian and Southeast Asian grocery stores. It gives an almost medicinal scent when fresh, and keeps well in the freezer for up to 3 months. If unavailable, omit entirely (do not use dried turmeric powder).