An egg, roughly its own volume of water or stock, and gentle heat. That is the whole dish — and it is the same dish in China, Japan and Korea, where it goes by zhengdan, chawanmushi and gyeran jjim and comes out three completely different textures. There is no sauce to hide behind and no browning to rescue it, which makes it one of the most exposed things I cook. Here is where it came from, why it fails, how each culture pulls it a different way, and the ninety-second version I make with an espresso steam wand.
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