Comments

Coffee · 27 of 35

Syrups for Coffee: Sugar, Honey, Glycerine and Gum

A row of flavored-syrup bottles fitted with pumps on a tiled café counter
Flavored syrups with pumps on a café counter. Underneath the flavoring, each is sugar and water.

Sugar dissolves slowly and incompletely in iced coffee, and honey sinks to the bottom of it, so anything cold is sweetened with a syrup. Below are the syrups by weight, how much goes in a cup, and how long each keeps. Then comes a question from my own bar: I put glycerine in my simple syrup to give it body. Does that belong in a coffee syrup, and how is it different from gum arabic, which bartenders used for the same purpose a hundred and fifty years ago?

The short answer: at the amount I use, the measured evidence says the glycerine is probably too little to feel once the syrup is in the drink. Gum arabic is a different kind of ingredient and does more per gram, but it is slow, cloudy and expensive, and in a large coffee it is thinned out as well.

The syrups, by weight

Make them on a scale. A cup of sugar weighs less than a cup of water, so “one to one” by cups is a weaker syrup than one to one by weight. The last two columns give the sweetness of two teaspoons of sugar in an 8 oz cup and three in a 12 oz cup: a place to start.

SyrupRecipe, by weightHow to make it8 oz cup12 oz cupKeeps
Simple syrup1 sugar : 1 waterStir into hot water until clear; cool16 g24 gAbout a month, cold
Rich syrup2 sugar : 1 waterHeat gently to dissolve; cool12 g18 gLonger than simple; still cold
Demerara or brown sugar1 : 1 or 2 : 1As above, with raw or brown sugar16 g / 12 g24 g / 18 gAs above
VanillaSimple syrup plus vanilla extract to tasteAdd the extract after the syrup has cooled16 g24 gAbout a month, cold
Honey syrup, 3 : 13 honey : 1 waterWeigh into a squeeze bottle with warm water (about 100 °F); shake. Do not boil.13 g20 gAt home: cold, from a few days to four weeks (sources differ). At a stall: mix on the day
Honey syrup, 2 : 12 honey : 1 waterAs above15 g22 gAs above
Maple syrupStraightNothing to make12 g18 gRefrigerate once open
Monk fruit and erythritol blend1 blend : 1 waterDissolve warm16 g24 gCold, a few days
Allulose1 allulose : 1 waterDissolve warm23 g34 gCold, a few days

What each tastes of, and which coffee it suits, is on the printable card: Syrups and Sweeteners: Recipes by Weight (PDF). Honey has a page of its own, Honey in Coffee, because it behaves differently from sugar. The vanilla can be home-made extract.

Rich syrup keeps better than simple because more of its water is tied up by sugar. Neither is shelf-stable. Both live in the refrigerator, or in the cooler at a stall.

The honey figures are two different rules. At home, the National Honey Board gives four weeks refrigerated and a bar reference gives a few days; neither publishes a test (Honey in Coffee has both). At a licensed market stall the answer is set by law, not by spoilage: a syrup mixed at home is home-prepared food, so it is mixed at the booth on the day.

Pumps. A standard café syrup pump of the kind sold for Torani’s 750 mL bottles gives ¼ oz a pump, about 7.4 mL, which in a 1 : 1 syrup is about 9 g. So the 12 oz column above is two pumps, and the 8 oz column a little under two. A 1 : 1 syrup is roughly half sugar by weight, so two pumps carry about 9 g of sugar: at a dollar a pound for sugar, about two cents a drink. What the rest of a cup costs is on Prices and Customers.

Flavored syrups beyond vanilla are steeped the same way: a spice or a bean simmered in the syrup and strained out. Brown sugar with a cinnamon stick, maple with cinnamon, and a caramel syrup (sugar cooked to amber, then loosened with hot water, never cold, because the caramel is far above boiling) are the common ones. The recipes, and the seasonal drinks they go into, are on Flavored and Seasonal Drinks. Commercial syrups keep on a shelf because they add preservatives, most often potassium sorbate and citric acid; a home syrup has neither, which is why the “Keeps” column says cold.

My simple syrup, and what is in it

My simple syrup is not quite the one in the table. It is 237 g of water, 200 g of sugar and 19 g of food-grade vegetable glycerine: one cup, one cup and one tablespoon, put on a scale. I add the glycerine for mouthfeel.

In numbers, that syrup is 44% sugar, 52% water and 4.2% glycerine. A 20 g dose, about what a 12 oz iced coffee takes, carries 8.8 g of sugar and 0.83 g of glycerine.

Glycerine: what it is

Glycerine, glycerin and glycerol are three names for one substance. It is a small molecule, a sugar alcohol, made by splitting fats and oils. The European Food Safety Authority describes it as “a clear, colourless, hygroscopic syrupy liquid.” The bottle of pure glycerine is very thick: about 1,400 times the viscosity of water.

A hand holds a brown plastic litre bottle with a white pharmacy label reading glycerol
A litre of glycerol from a pharmacy supplier.
  • It is legal and ordinary. In the United States it is on the list of substances “generally recognized as safe when used in accordance with good manufacturing practice” (21 CFR 182.1320), with no numeric limit. In Europe it is additive E 422.
  • It is sweet, somewhat less than sugar, and it has calories: makers’ data sheets give about 4 per gram. It counts as carbohydrate on a label, not as sugar.
  • “Vegetable” matters to some customers. Glycerine can be made from animal fat as well as from plant oils, so it is vegan or kosher only when the bottle says so.

Can anyone feel 4% glycerine in a drink?

The thick liquid in the bottle is not what reaches the mouth. It is diluted twice: once into the syrup, and again into the drink.

What is measured. The only careful threshold in print comes from wine, where glycerol is a natural part of the drink and tasters have argued about it for decades. In 1984 Ann Noble and G. F. Bursick had trained tasters compare a dry white wine with and without added glycerol. Their abstract gives two numbers:

  • Tasters could detect added sweetness at 5.2 grams per litre.
  • To feel added thickness took 25.8 grams per litre. Below that, “glycerol does not produce a detectable increase in perceived viscosity.”

Later wine studies mostly agree. One found glycerol’s contribution to perceived body “nominal” next to sugar and alcohol. Two found a small effect at 5 to 10 grams per litre in some wines. A third, by the same group, found none. Nobody reports an effect below 5.

What my syrup delivers. Here is the glycerol in the finished drink, for a light and a heavy hand:

DrinkSyrup addedGlycerol in the drinkAgainst the 25.8 g/L thickness threshold
A 3 oz stirred cocktail10 g4.2 g/L6 times below
The same20 g7.6 g/L3.4 times below
An 8 oz hot coffee10 g1.7 g/L15 times below
The same20 g3.2 g/L8 times below
A 12 oz iced coffee10 g1.2 g/L22 times below
The same20 g2.3 g/L11 times below

Every line is well under the threshold. In coffee it is not close.

Glycerine thickens water no more than sugar does. A classic set of measurements puts a 10% glycerol solution at 1.31 centipoise at room temperature; a 10% sugar solution is 1.34. Water is 1.0. Gram for gram they are the same. So the 19 g of glycerine in my syrup thickens it about as much as 19 g more sugar would. The body I notice in the bottle is real, but most of it is the sugar’s.

Heat thins all of it. Water is less than half as viscous at 140 °F as at room temperature, and syrups follow. Whatever body a syrup adds, a hot coffee shows less of it than an iced one.

The honest limits of that conclusion. The thresholds were measured in white wine, at room temperature, not in coffee or a cocktail. No sensory test of glycerine in either has been published. And a spirit-forward drink is a different thing from a wine: it may be that glycerine softens the burn of alcohol in a way that is not thickness at all. So I am not throwing my recipe out. I am going to test it, and the test is easy: make two bottles, one with and one without, and run the triangle game from the tasting page on a few friends. If nobody can pick the odd glass, the glycerine goes.

Should glycerine go in a coffee syrup?

Reasons it does no harm:

  • The dose is tiny. A 20 g serving of my syrup has 0.83 g of glycerine. The British warning about glycerol is for children’s slush drinks, where one 350 mL cup can hold about 17 g, twenty times as much.
  • It is cheap. The glycerine in a 750 mL bottle of syrup costs about 35 cents at one seller’s quart price.
  • It mixes instantly and stays clear.

Reasons to leave it out:

  • It probably cannot be felt in a cup of coffee, by the numbers above.
  • It does not preserve the syrup. Water activity is a measure of how much of the water in a food is free for microbes to use, from 0 (none) to 1 (pure water). Worked out from published sugar tables, 4% glycerine lowers the water activity of a one-to-one syrup from about 0.95 to about 0.93. Mould and yeast are comfortable at both. A rich two-to-one syrup, at about 0.86, does far more with no additive at all.
  • It is one more thing on the label, and one more question from a customer. A bottled syrup has to list it: it is over 2% and it is there for a purpose.
  • A market stall cannot sell bottled syrup from a home kitchen at all. Michigan’s cottage food list says, in so many words, “No simple syrups.” Syrup for the drinks is mixed at the booth under the food licence (the rules page).

What the commercial syrups do. The ingredient lists on the makers’ own pages show it. Torani’s vanilla and caramel syrups have none. Monin’s plain cane syrup has none. Monin’s vanilla syrup in the glass bottle lists vegetable glycerine third, after sugar and water, and the same flavor in the plastic litre does not. Monin does not say why. One possibility is that it carries the flavoring rather than adding body; nothing Monin publishes settles it.

My answer: for a coffee syrup, no. Sugar and water do the work, and a rich syrup gives more body than a simple one with nothing added. In the cocktail syrup I will keep it until the triangle test tells me otherwise.

Gum arabic: a different kind of thing

Gum arabic is the dried sap of acacia trees: in the words of the federal regulation, “the dried gummy exudate from stems and branches of trees of various species of the genus Acacia.” Syrup made with it is gomme, or gum syrup, and it is what nineteenth-century bars sweetened with. The 1862 bar manual bound with Jerry Thomas’s How to Mix Drinks gives a recipe by the barrel: “20 lbs. of best clear white gum arabic dissolved in 4 gallons of water, nearly boiling hot; take 60 lbs. of sugar, melt and clarify it with 1 gallon of water … add the gum solution, and boil for 2 minutes.” That works out to a syrup that is about 16% gum. My own gomme syrup is a modern, lighter version.

Three pale orange translucent lumps of raw gum arabic beside a small heap of cream-colored powder
Gum arabic as it is sold: the raw lumps, called tears, and the powder ground from them.

Where glycerine is one small molecule, gum arabic is a tangle of very large ones: branched chains of sugars with a little protein attached, thousands of times heavier than a glycerine molecule. That difference is the whole comparison.

A branch of an acacia tree with a mass of amber gum seeping from a wound in the bark
Gum seeping from an acacia branch. This is what is collected, dried and ground.
GlycerineGum arabic
What it isOne small molecule, a sugar alcoholA mix of very large sugar-and-protein molecules; a soluble fibre
Sweet?Yes, a little less than sugarNo
Thickening, gram for gramAbout the same as sugarSeveral times more than sugar or glycerine
Holds flavor oils in suspensionNoYes. This is its main job in soft drinks.
ClarityClear and colourlessA straw-yellow syrup with a foamy head; needs a day to settle
Making itPour and stirSlow. The powder clumps, and wants hours or an overnight soak.
In a hot drinkStableStable in heat and in acid, but its proteins are damaged by long hot storage
KeepingDoes not spoil; does not preserve the syrupThe gum itself is broken down by bacteria over time; keep it cold
US rule”Good manufacturing practice”; no numberA percentage limit in the finished food: 2% in soft drinks, 1% in most other foods
CautionsLarge amounts in small childrenWind, at 30 g a day; the dry powder is an allergen for people who work with it
Cost per 750 mL of syrupAbout $0.35About $16 at a small-jar price, for a syrup that is 10% gum

Why gum works where glycerine does not. Thickening comes from the size of the molecule. A 1% solution of gum arabic is about 23% thicker than water, by one published measurement; 1% of sugar or glycerine adds about 3%. And the gum’s small protein fraction lets it coat droplets of oil, which is why a gomme-sweetened drink is said to feel “silky” and to hold together.

Is it felt in coffee? The wine threshold is a weight of glycerol, so it has to be turned into a thickness before gum can be compared with it. 25.8 g/L is about 2.6% glycerol, and at about 3% more viscosity per 1%, that is a drink roughly 8% thicker than water. On the same footing, gum at about 23% per 1%:

Drink, with a 10%-gum syrupGum in the drinkThicker than water by aboutAgainst the ~8% threshold
A 3 oz stirred cocktailabout 1%23%Well over
An 8 oz coffee0.4%9%At it
A 12 oz iced coffee0.3%7%At it

So gomme plausibly earns its trouble in a three-ounce drink. In a coffee it lands right at the edge of what wine tasters could feel, which is too close to call either way. This is weak evidence: an estimate across two papers, a threshold measured in white wine, and a straight-line scaling of viscosity that is only roughly true at these strengths. No one has tasted it.

The rule to know. The federal regulation limits gum arabic to a percentage of the food “as served.” Soft drinks get 2%. Coffee and syrups are not named, and on a plain reading fall under “all other food categories,” at 1%. The 1862 recipe, used with a heavy hand in a small drink, would go over that. A modern 10% gomme in a cup of coffee would not come near it. No regulator has said which row applies to a coffee drink, so the 1% row is a plain reading, not a ruling.

Side by side: which to use where

ForUseWhy
Iced coffee, cold brew, a flash-brewed pour-overSimple or rich syrup, nothing addedSugar is doing the work. Neither additive can be felt at this dilution.
A honey coffeeHoney syrup, mixed on the dayHoney is the point, and it brings its own body
A small, strong drink: a cocktail, or a phin coffee served shortGomme, if you want to feel itEnough gum reaches the mouth to register
A spirit-forward cocktail, quicklyGlycerine syrup, pending the triangle testTen seconds’ work; the evidence for it is thin
Anything sold in a bottleSugar and water onlyThe shortest label, and no cottage food route exists for syrups anyway

Where these go: the add-ins they sit beside are on Additions; iced coffee and cold brew on Iced Coffee and Ice; the stall’s menu on The Drinks.

What is not known

  • Any tasting study of glycerine or gum arabic in coffee, in cocktails or in soft drinks. Every threshold here is from white wine.
  • A measured shelf life for a syrup with glycerine in it. The water-activity figures are calculated.
  • Why Monin puts glycerine in some syrups and not others.
  • Which row of the federal gum arabic limit covers a coffee drink.
  • Anything published on what either does to espresso crema or milk foam.

Sources

Comments (0)

  1. Loading…

Comments are held for moderation — nothing appears until approved.